A bewitching landscape of Fairy Chimneys, Canyons and Caves!

I quickly discovered why this land-locked part of Turkey in the Central Anatolia region is very much a jewel in the crown of tourism. The spectacularly eroded volcanic rock and ash which once spewed millions of years ago from the nearby and now extinct volcanoes of Mount Erciyes and Hasan, is the most natural and dramatic landscape that mother nature could ever have created.

…. And I was lucky enough to accompany and share this experience with a KE Adventure group. Not only for a day or two like so many other tourists who flock to the area through the summer months but actually be fully immersed in the culture for seven days; a unique and, in my experience, the only way to truly be fulfilled and inspired by Cappadocia and its people. I’ve made the tough decision to try and summarise my experience into five top highlights, believe me that was NOT easy!

This particular view point is a feast for the eyes and summarises nicely, for all to see, how the solidification of ash and erosion over the years of soft rock has created such an extraordinary selection of rock formations. Set across a vast area, and characterising Cappadocia, Love Valley is so-called because of its distinct phallic towers, but for me, it’s the story of old folklore of fairies living in the underground!

You can’t escape the opportunity to explore the many underground cities and chapels carved out of the soft rock, and the history around this. Derinkuyu, Sognali, Selime, and Guzelyurt are all fantastic places for your inner child to be unleashed! Ducking through the small and hidden tunnels takes you deeper into the core of these unbelievably impressive acts of manpower. It is said that up to 20,000 people sought strategic protection at one time down in Derinkuyu, I’m not sure how I would have coped back then… other than the knowledge of the large wine presses and cellars! I shouldn’t forget to mention Goreme, where memories of intrinsically and colourfully designed frescoes will never leave…. Unfortunately no photographic evidence given the policy on no photography at all inside the chapels.

There’s no better place than a terrace with a view. After some of the most scenically awesome cycling you will do, the reward of staying in the same place for a couple of evenings is well received, and I must admit, our choice is brilliant. Imagine having a beer or a glass of wine to relax after a day of cycling and sightseeing, whilst watching the sun set over the tracks and trails just explored, or walking to one of the best panoramic viewpoints of the area; the Uchisar Fortress, located only a stone’s throw from your ‘pansiyon’. Or overlooking Monastery Valley, and the views towards the Hasan Mountain range, where so much of the volcanic activity shaped the region. You can even pretend to live like a troglodyte (cave dweller) for an evening!

Much of my experience and happy memories of Cappadocia lie within the Baklava! My group of fellow cyclists will even quote me as saying “This is delicious, I could eat this morning, noon and night”, and must admit I made a fairly good attempt at it. This small paradise of rich, sweet layer upon layer of filo pastry, chopped nuts and locally produced honey is yummy in my tummy! Local and informal ‘lokanta’ or kebab houses are where most of our lunches are taken, and are always a great find by our Turkish guides. We had a selection of mezze dishes followed by either pizza, choice of grilled meat, or stew, all freshly prepared and sourced. Did I mention agriculture? The land is very fertile and throughout the history of Cappadocia, agriculture has always been a means to prosperity. You’ll meet plenty of people working the lands, from ladies sowing pumpkin seeds on the high Anatolian plateau, to the gentlemen working on their potato crops. As a vegetarian, the plentiful amount of fresh vegetables was superb, and as an observer of the plentiful meat dishes served, including skewers and steaks, I know you won’t be disappointed! Oh and the aromatic fresh breads……

It is true to say I’m a ‘roadie’, one of those Lycra-clad people who enjoy tarmac surfaces and steady climbs! But when it comes to cross country and mountain biking, I must admit I did have my reservations…. How was I ever going to tackle the Ihlara Canyon which I’d heard so much about? Reflecting on my experience, and the fun of the challenge, I had no need to worry. Not only did we have the guidance of our superstar, former MTB champion of Turkey, Kadir Usta, but also the full support of our back up vehicle. Both of these elements gave every single one of my group the confidence to go forth (we were a mixed group of leisure cyclists and experienced mountain bikers) and not miss out of this unique experience. It’s a relatively short section in the grand scheme of the trip and we had a great time carrying our bikes uphill, challenging the tree roots and dodging the tortoises (yes true!). The river, the lushness of the earth and the hidden caves, just fantastic…. Please can I go back?!

View all of our Cappadocia adventures below, including Vanessa's trip - Turkish Delight. Don't hesitate to ask Vanessa any questions you may have - email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or phone on +44(0)17687 73966.