We decided to make the most of the Easter Holidays with something warm and exotic. KE looked the most interesting of the Northern India tours available and proved to be a great experience and adventure!

Day 1

Flew from Newcastle via Heathrow to Delhi. It rained as we took off from the UK and we were greeted by rain as we landed at Delhi although it was a warmer welcoming rain than we'd left.  BA was super efficient and we arrived feeling pretty fresh. Our guides were easy to spot with their KE logos and made us feel secure and welcome. We boarded our AC minibus and were introduced to our fellow group members. We seemed to form a group bond very quickly and began our journey towards Jaipur in high spirits.

Our journey introduces us to India's indigenous animals with camels, cows, monkeys and elephant contributing to roadside scenery. Most of them were doing their part for the Indian economy apart from the monkeys who remain independent. The vehicles on the road are equally diverse with lorries, motorbikes, tuk tuks and tractors all decorated with the individuality of a graffiti artist. Some of the more mechanically minded have created their own vehicles perhaps in honour of the early days of motoring or more likely from necessity. It makes one feel part of a no rules rally as we take our part on the highway. Our drive takes us through the desert countryside of Rajasthan from which small blue hills rise up. The hills increase in frequency and scale as we approach Jaipur and the Red Fort of Amer. This is our first sight of the red stone forts and we are suitably awe struck at the scale of the architecture but also how beautiful it is. Instead of the more traditional moat, there is a lake surrounding the entrance providing a refreshing breeze as the warm wind cools over the water. We continue to the city itself, entering through one of the enormous red stone gates which allow access to the city. Our hotel is resplendent in red stone and marble. I am especially taken with the marble bath! Our evening meal is a delight of vegetarian and meat dishes served with naan, rice and daal.

Day 2

We prepare for our Jaipur tour with a hearty breakfast and head for the Palace of the Winds, a beautiful red facade of a building which allowed the ladies of the harem to be able to view the street life of Jaipur without being visible to the local populace. Judging by the scale of the building the harem was a sizeable affair. We move on to an astronomical park which housed instruments to measure time and positions of the stars of the zodiac. These instruments were also made from marble and huge in the scale of their construction. Quite impressive technology for the late 17th century!  Our afternoon takes us on a full tour of the Amer Fort, which housed courtyards and gardens for the prince and his entourage. We are treated to a snake charmer playing his own version of the bagpipes to his Cobra. The crowd are as transfixed as the snake by the haunting melody. Evening provides another delicious meal at our hotel where we relax over a few drinks and share photographs of the day.

Day 3

We head towards Ranthambore Tiger reserve in the morning. Our driver skilfully navigating the roads of Jaipur as we leave the city. Our journey takes us past the roadside workshops of the city where anything can be made or fixed; this being a legacy of the founder of the city who encouraged a manufacturing cottage industry as a sound basis for the economy (and his own tax revenue). The countryside becomes greener and our elevation increases as we head to the jungle area of Ranthambore. Our hotel is set in its own gardens with swimming pool and leafy arbores surrounding our rooms. After a lunch break we board our Cantors and head for the Tiger Park. There is lots of other wild life in the forest and lakes, which has a Jurassic park feel to it as we head through the stone entrance gates. We bounce merrily along the track stopping for photographs when the call comes that a Tiger has been spotted. Our driver races to the spot and we are rewarded by the sight of a tail partly hidden behind a tree. The tail becomes a tiger that strolls over towards us.  The tiger turns out to be the mother of 2 cubs who also stroll around our cantor gambolling with each other in mock fights. Our excitement and camera clicks increase as a fourth tiger joins in the fun. This really is a privilege to see as we find out that other tiger "hunters" have not been so lucky with their sightings.  Feeling pleased with our success we have plenty of tales for the dinner table.

Day 4

Get up early for the morning Safari. No Tigers today but Leopards prove to be quite a distraction. They don't come close to the Cantor and seem happy to keep their distance but still a thrill. The monkeys entertain us for the rest of the morning and we feel like a good breakfast has been well earned. We board our trusty bus for the drive to Agra. We arrive in the city quite late but enjoy a fabulous meal in a revolving restaurant on the roof of our hotel. In the distance we can see the dome of the Taj Mahal drifting across the city skyline as our dining room rotates.

Day 5

We head out early to the Taj. This enables us to beat the crowds but also adds to the early morning magical atmosphere. The grounds and Taj itself are incredibly beautiful giving us a delightful morning. As we head to the main marble building we can hear the sounds of the boats on the river and look across the cityscape of Agra itself.  After our final photographs of the Taj gardens we return to our rotating restaurant for a mid morning breakfast which gives panoramic views of Agra in the morning sun.

We take a refreshing break before heading out at lunchtime to the Moghul Fort of Agra. Not to be outdone by other forts it boasts a double moat, which had the additional security system of crocodiles for the would be attacker! Luckily this was in the past and we could relax and enjoy the splendours of ancient shower rooms and giant sized baths where the moghul entertained his Harem.

Late afternoon we prepare for our overnight train journey to Varanassi. Our guide arranges a picnic lunch of savouries and a treat of rum to help us nod off in our carriage. The train arrives after a little delay at the station and we spy our carriage as AC sleeper. Our group are arranged together and after our rum and picnic we settle into our fresh bedding to snooze. Despite some initial apprehension the toilet facilities turn out to be remarkably good and certainly put British Rail facilities to shame.

Day 6

We arrive at Varanassi station and find our AC bus to take us to our hotel. The drive takes us through some grim industrial sights and the smog of coal yards, but our mood is lifted as we pause on the bridge above the Ganges River to take in the city. Surprisingly many of the population are taking their morning exercise, jogging along the bridge and providing a contrast to the old buildings lining the riverbanks. We arrive at our hotel which is a Spa complex with large swimming pool, shops, bars and treatment rooms where massage, facials and various beauty treatments are available. I took advantage of the hairdresser who gave one of the best haircuts I've ever had. We spend the day refreshing ourselves and doing a little personal sightseeing before meeting our guide to head out for the "Aarti" ceremony by the river. Our journey involved Tuk Tuk through the hectic streets, our driver playing local disco music to settle our nerves. After negotiating every other road user and animal our nerves were tested further by transferring to a rickshaw for the final part of the journey to the central bazaar where we tested our bartering skills. Needless to say our skills weren't very good but even so our purchases seemed to be tremendous bargains.

Down to the river now and we boarded a small boat, floating out into the river to get a different view of the riverside city. The funeral ceremony involved the ritual washing and then burning of the deceased on wooden pyres. although it did feel a little intrusive it was compelling and moving to witness. In respect we set our candles floating along the river in homage to the journeying souls departed. We sat very quietly and felt part of something very ancient. We drifted further downriver and had our spirits uplifted by the Hindu Aarti ceremony with lots of singing, dancing and spectacles of light performed by the young Brahmin. A late dinner and deep conversation brought an end to our day as we prepared for our early morning tour. 

Day 7

Back to the river again but by bus and then on foot through the early morning mist and smoke. We follow a group of worshippers chanting and dancing along the street. We sway behind in hypnotic trance and find our boat once again. The morning is cool by the river and gives a different perspective of the Ghats as locals perform their morning wash and swim in the holy river. The sun slowly lifts up and lights the Ghats themselves. We are treated to a group of young trainee monks being trained in Yoga, their master alternately bellowing instructions and collapsing in laughter at their efforts. The boys are pleased to have an audience and seem to enjoy mocking their instructor for our amusement. Landing on the shore we walk through the narrow backstreets where narrow, ornate temples are being brought to life by their inhabitant priests.

Varanassi as the hometown of Shiva the Destroyer could not illustrate more clearly the flow between life and death, rich and poor, splendour and squalor. We spend some time in reflection at the spa and prepare for our evening train journey to Delhi. As before our guide prepared an evening picnic for the train and rum gives way to whiskey. We know what to expect now from our train journey and have a very comfortable night.

Day 8

As promised, Chai arrives in plentiful supply in the morning along with omelettes, sandwiches and vegetarian sausages. It was a welcome and tasty start to the day. Our hotel looks very inviting and after a refreshing shower and rest we head out into Delhi. Starting our sightseeing with a mosque set high up above the city it feels cool and breezy. The girls in the group are asked to wear long shawls, which makes them look like they have arrived from an Amish commune. It amuses the locals who queue up to have their photographs taken with the English ladies who seem to enjoy the attention. Our next stop is the tomb of Ghandi himself and our city guide provides a lesson in modern Indian History. Nearby to the Ghandi Gardens is the City Cricket ground and the current PPL match sends cheers and groans across the city. Our final sight is called the Mini Taj and although not quite as grand as the Agra white marble version it is set in peaceful gardens arranged to represent paradise. whoever designed it did a pretty good job.

Our final meal was as delicious as ever and we swapped our final tales, contact details and farewells. Unfortunately the only beer available was Kingfisher Super, which was twice as strong as our normal refreshment. Needless to say it seemed rude to refuse it!  

Day 9

Our transport arrives promptly for each group member and as we were last we waved the other members off before heading to the airport ourselves. Bring on the next trip! 

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