In December, I was lucky enough to join our tour of the 'Golden Triangle' cities of Delhi, Jaipur and Agra and including a visit to the holy city of Varanasi beside the River Ganges. The trip far exceeded my expectations, with comfortable hotels, great food and a riot of amazing spectacles. The Amber Fort at Jaipur, sunrise at the Taj Mahal and the very atmospheric aarti ceremony on the banks of the Ganges are experiences I will never forget.

Getting There

Heading out to India on the Saturday morning, I was dropped off at Penrith and took the train directly to Manchester Airport for the early afternoon flight.

I was pleased to be flying with Emirates, an airline I had used before and knew to offer a first-rate flying experience. The reality was even better, however, as the first leg of the flight to Dubai was in one of the latest double-decker Airbus 380 aircraft. My first time in this aircraft and I can’t remember a smoother or quieter flight. The service and catering was also up to Emirates’ usual high standards.

Day 1 - Bustling Delhi and the transfer to Jaipur

Arrived at Delhi to be met by our airport rep Satendra. We had coffee in the arrivals hall whilst awaiting the arrival of the Jet Airways flight with the remainder of the group. At 11am, we met our guide, Ketan and driver, Karam. Our transport was a brand-new 10-seater Force minibus with AC. It was close to midday before we set off. Ketan good at keeping us updated on what was happening and talking about bits and pieces on the route. The road journey is exciting and interesting; 2 lanes, 4 lanes, 6 lanes, sometimes more. All vehicles drive in which ever lane they choose and pass either side. Cows, camel-carts, dogs and monkeys. Ketan stopped once for bananas for us and we stopped for lunch at the Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace) after 2 hours. We paid 500 rupees (£5) each for a very nice ‘Indian’ - rice, naan, veg curry or whatever the clients wanted with a drink; coke, lemon tea. It is an interesting start to the trip to make this road journey – you see everything that northern India has to offer, from the decorated trucks and roadside development – from dhabas (roadside tea-shops) to new factories and apartment buildings, incompleted bridges, wayside statues of Hindu gods, hillside temples and other road architecture. Also the sheer mayhem on the road – as long as the driver is on the ball - and Karam was – is something to see. Really sets the tone. After the lunch stop, the country opens up a bit, there are fields and rocky hills, marble quarries, cement factories and growing crops. Also Rajasthani men in their white clothing and turbans and the brightly clothed ladies. Look out for huge loads (of forage for example) on tractors and trailers and for family groups of 5 on a motor-bike. We got to Amer just as the sun went down, a little after 5pm. The Amer Fort (which we will see tomorrow) was very impressive. The continuing drive through Jaipur was busy. We saw elephants, the palace in the lake and the Hawa Mahal – Palace of the Winds. Eventually arrived at the Fort Chandragupt Hotel after 5 hours driving plus the lunch stop. Very atmospheric, authentic hotel; we got katas and tikkas and a coke in reception on arrival. Dinner was set for 8pm in the second floor dining room and retired to our rooms for a wash and brush up. At dinner we met the KE photo group who had left the UK a day ahead of us. They were happy after their first day in Jaipur. Photo guide John G was raving about the photo opportunities. Dinner was an excellent buffet and the dining room is pleasant, colourfully tiled with a view of the pool. Ketan discussed with us his aim to make this trip offer a real taste of India. He briefed us on what he wants to do tomorrow and we discussed the idea of going to a Bollywood movie in the early evening – all part of the cultural immersion.

Day 2 -  Colourful Jaipur

Good breakfast buffet, Cornflakes, warm milk. Fruit juice, hot water for tea/coffee. Bread, fruit, cooked tomatoes, baked beans, hard boiled eggs, tomato bhajee, like a spicy dal with tomatoes, fiery chilli sauce. Very good. We got away by 7.30 and drove to the Palace of the Winds, nicely lit, for the first photos of the day. Stopped there 15 mins max, before heading on to the Amer Fort. The elephants were already on the move when we got there. Ketan suggested we didn’t take an elephant ride to the fort – which is optional, as we would be queueing. We had a photo stop beside the lake, earned good karma by feeding the stripey, perch-like fish with a sort of tsampa (floury paste). We were happy to walk up to the fort. Lots of elephants – gobsmacking. Great light, very impressive fort, rock-climbing langur monkeys also amazing. We were 2 and a half hours at least at the fort and stopped for a coffee in a café in the bowels of the complex as we walked out. Next stop was a handicraft emporium where we saw block printing and hand loom carpet weaving. Inevitably we ended up in the carpet warehouse – there are several here, that’s what the place is about. One of the clients bought a nice camel-wool rug. We then had lunch at the roadside Maharaja ‘Restaurent’. We were each brought cokes and massive bowls of vegetable biriani and a rhaita. Never thought we’d shift this, but we did – it was great. £5 with the drink. Then on to the current home of the Maharaja, the City Palace, where there is a museum. We looked around and also spend probably 45 minutes in the adjacent Jantar Mantar Observatory – another pretty whacky place with enormous astronomical instruments. We had a specialist guide for this tour. By now it was 3pm probably and the heat and especially the intensity of light was quite fierce. As the sun started to sink a little, we took a pedal rickshaw ride in a 30 minute loop through bazaar street. We also took a stroll around the streets and stopped to drink a lassi in a very basic roadside ‘restaurant’. Got to say I have enjoyed everything I have eaten on this trip. Final stop of the day was at the Raj Mandir cinema for the 6.30 performance of the Bollywood film ‘Happy Ending’. We watched it until the intermission and then returned to the the hotel for dinner. Set meal this time, lots of choice and great food. During the day we had each given Ketan 2000 rupees to cover all of our tipping for hotel staff, naturalist guides etc. etc. throughout the trip.

Day 3 - Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve

It took 4 hours to drive to Ranthambore (Sawai Madhopur). After a fairly short time on a main road, we turned onto a country road that took us through several villages, mint-green houses, hand painted advertising hoardings like Brut underwear and Hero bicycles. Lots of yellow (mustard) growing beside the roads and areas also with rice. We crossed a number of water channels and some wet areas. Colourful ladies in the fields and men and women driving goats along the road. Some better road also. Arrived at our destination and checked in at the Ankur Resort on the outskirts of SM. Not unimpressive with a central reception and restaurant and bungalow rooms in the gardens. Rooms are good, there’s a useable pool and the lunchtime veggy dishes were exceptional. We had about an hour and a half before the ‘canter’ would turn up for our first park visit at just before 2 and I took a half-hour walk down to the town and back. The open top ‘canter’ safari trucks take 20 pax and we filled up with more UK clients from 2 other hotels. The safari took about 3 hours or a little longer. We drove on Route 3 – there are several different routes through the park and you are allocated one of them at the park gate. Route 3, which we took, includes 2 of Ranthambhore’s lakes. It is very picturesque, with lots of wildlife, all pretty tame. Samba deer, spotted deer, chital, nilgai, wild boar, grey langurs, crocodiles and some very interesting birds. Tigers had been spotted in the area that we visited recently, including a tigress and 3 cubs, but we didn’t see one. After a couple of hours we dropped back to an internal park ‘gate’ next to Ranthambhore Castle for a comfort break. Interesting, nice light. Dinner great and bed.

Day 4 - Tiger spotting and the road to Agra

We had a 7am start at the gate. Picked up a canter full of French and young English tourists. It was quite cold driving to the park and the sun didn’t come up properly for 45 minutes or so. We were on Route 2 this morning. This one turns away below the impressive walls of Ranthanbhore Fort and drops into a gorge. There was less wildlife evident early on. We also heard from the naturalist guide that those on Route 3 had found a tiger. We saw the usual suspects, deer, monkeys, crested serpent eagle, a pair of small owlets. At the turn around, where there is a toilet block, there are lots and lots of inquisitive and very tame jungle babblers and tree pies, which descended on the truck in the hope of being fed. Heading back there was a brief kafuffle when one of the other vehicles suggested there was a (rare) sloth bear in the area. We never saw it. Continuing our journey out, there was another meeting with a vehicle; we stopped and I spotted a feline shape up in the forest. I thought it was a tiger, but it turned out to be a big male leopard. We had a reasonable view through binoculars, but no chance of photos. Back at the lodge, we had breakfast and prepared for the next stage of our journey. Karam brought our bus around and we settled down for the drive to Agra. Lots of mega colourful scenery and we arrived at Fatehpur Sikhri late afternoon for our tour. Another very impressive red sandstone city, built by the Mughal emperor Akhbar and displaying a mix of Hindu and Islamic architecture. Particularly striking as the sun set. The last leg of our drive into Agra was delayed by a succession of wedding processions – early December is an auspicious period for weddings in India. We got to the hotel in Agra a little after 7 and ate dinner in the revolving restaurant. Food and service all good. Rooms good. Hot showers, lounge area, tea and coffee making. John G’s group were also in the restaurant, after their day at the Taj.

Day 5 - Agra and the incredible Taj Mahal

The Taj gates open at 6.50 and we met in the lobby at 6.15, walked for 15 minutes to the site office where Ketan picked up tickets and from here an electric cart took us to the queue at the Eastern Gate. Didn’t take too long to get in. The macaques playing around the security check area were amusing. Sun came up, conditions were perfect for photos. The Taj Mahal is a stunning monument in a striking setting beside the Yamuna River. It’s a place I had wanted to visit for years and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Ketan did his usual great job of explaining the site for an hour or so, then the group had a free hour. All good. Returned to the hotel for breakfast omelettes in the Merry Go Round restaurant. Next stop on the tour was the Agra Fort. We had a good look around this mega-impressive building for at least an hour and a half with great views of the Taj from a distance. Next we drove across the river to get in a position to photograph the Taj from the other side. We walked back across the adjacent bridge, then had a late lunch at an Indian fast food joint, with some free time to walk up and down a street with some shops and hotels (one with wedding celebrations). At about 5.30, we drove out to Tunla in the dark. This only took 45 minutes. So, once we had paid tips to the excellent Karam, our exemplary driver, we went for a walk along the market street of Tunla. The streets of Tunla were interesting in the dark – we were something of a novelty. Stopped for garam chai at a stall, saw lots of stuff and headed back to the station. Interesting scene. The photo group turned up with their guide, Bali. They had been out to Fatehpur Sikri and had also had a sunset stop at the same place we went to on the other side of the river from the Taj. The train was a little over an hour late. Ketan had brought samosas, juice and some sweet deserts for our dinner.

Day 6 - Varanasi and the Aarti Ceremony

We reached Mughalsarai Junction in the early morning and took a short drive to the Hotel Surya in the city of Varanasi, where we had a late breakfast of tea/coffee, toast, omelette and discussed our options. Ketan has been suggesting from the start that we should attend the ‘aarti’ ceremony on the banks of the Ganges and we all want to do this. This will involve a tuk-tuk (motorised rickshaw) ride to the ghats and he proposes that we also hire a boat to get into the best position (just out from the site) to view the ceremony. Three hours off and the chance of a shower is welcome to everyone. The Hotel Surya is big and has pool, spa, garden coffee bar, big rooms, good beds, 2 restaurants. There is a wedding reception scheduled for this evening in a large function room decorated with coloured lights. Late afternoon we take the tuk-tuk ride to the ghats. We have 3 very new machines by Indian standards and battling through the traffic was a revelation. The skill and reaction time of the drivers is simply amazing. Took about 15 minutes to get within a 10-minute walk of the river. Great to look around and take photos – we were there by 4 pm and it was already pretty grey. Lots of sadhus sitting around, most of them happy to be photographed for a fee. John G’s team turned up, having also taken tuk-tuks. The aarti ceremony starts slowly with the preparation of the butter-lamps and cow-dung fuelled burners. The seven priests also begin their preparations on small plinths facing the river. We got together again shortly before 6 and pushed off into the river on a boat, from which to watch proceedings. Quite an effective option. John G’s group had reserved seats at a café-viewpoint above one of the 2 main and well-lit ceremonial areas. It was quite a moving experience, with the rhythmic clapping and singing – everyone enjoyed it. Must have lasted at least half an hour. The return tuk-tuk ride to the hotel was even wilder in the dark. Great dinner; one of the best of the trip. There were several wedding ceremonies ongoing at our hotel and in a garden area adjacent. Lots of fireworks and brass band action. We watched the arrival of the groom and JG was invited in to take pictures of him.

Day 7 - Sailing on the Ganges

Another early start, with both groups in the reception at 6am. We bussed to the river on quieter roads than the previous evening. We met our boatman and rowed up and down the river, out from the ghats, as the day got gradually brighter. Foggy again. There was a yoga class in progress on one of the ghats with the teacher blasting out his instruction and breathing techniques through a very loud loudspeaker. Again, Ketan gave us a running commentary. Turning back, we passed the site of last night’s ceremonies and continued as far as the burning ghats. Close by, we disembarked and had a walk up through one of the ancient guesthouses and into the backstreets. At 7.40 we were ready to return to the hotel for breakfast. Over breakfast, we discussed our options. Four of us decided to go out to the significant Buddhist stupa at Sarnath, where we enjoyed pleasant walk around in the sun, amongst several temples and a souvenir stall-lined street. In the evening we drove back to Mughalsarai Junction to catch the overnight sleeper train back to Delhi.

Day 8 - A day in Delhi

Arriving in Delhi in the morning, our programme had been rescheduled on account of a wedding celebration at our proposed hotel in the city centre and a switch to an alternative hotel close to the airport. As a result, we had breakfast at a café on Connaught Circus and spent a couple of hours on a city tour; Red Fort, India Gate and the market streets of Chandni Chowk. We then transferred out to the Ashok Country Resort Hotel, where we had the afternoon free to chill out. In the afternoon, 30 lengths of the surprisingly cool hotel pool was a welcome tonic. Not a popular one, apparently. The pool attendant said I was the first person to use the pool in 2 weeks! Dinner and overnight at the Ashok marked the end of a memorable visit to Incredible India.

>> Find out more about this trip