Recipe for perfect African adventures

Take 16 lions, 22 elephants, 1 leopard and a pod of hippos, mix with 3002 metres of the highest point in the Mount Mulanje massif and top off with a s... Read more
Recipe for perfect African adventures

Take 16 lions, 22 elephants, 1 leopard and a pod of hippos, mix with 3002 metres of the highest point in the Mount Mulanje massif and top off with a sprinkling of water from the 9th largest lake in the world, and the result is an awesome African adventure. When I joined our 13 day Mount Mulanje and South Luangwa holiday in Malawi and Zambia I found that the three elements of the itinerary were a recipe for a fantastic experience.

We were met at Lilongwe airport by our guide Eddie after a great flight with Ethiopian Airways, who would spend the next couple of weeks looking after us and sharing his knowledge of local wildlife, politics, culture and pretty much anything else you would like to know about the area! His warm welcome was the first of many more to come; Malawi is known as the 'warm heart of Africa' and I can now see why. Eddie was joined by Charles, our driver, who was a key component in linking the aspects of the trip with his safe driving, ability to spot potholes at 100 metres and smoothly dodge goats and chickens!

A safari in one of the greatest wildlife sanctuaries in the world, South Luangwa, is the first of the three highlights of this trip. The concentration of animals in the park is among the most intense in Africa and in 20 hours of games drives we saw an incredible number of animals and birds. Having never been on a safari before, I was amazed and privileged to be so close to the wild animals. This was no David Attenborough television program; we were witnessing the lives and deaths of these amazing creatures within metres of us. Families of elephants plodding in lines to reach the banks of the Luangwa river, a heavily pregnant hippo separated from the pod ready to give birth alone to protect her calf, a pride of lions devouring their latest kill, colourful bee eater birds swooping in and out of their river bank nests, a pack of wild dogs lazing in the shade, and the list could go on. I feel that we didn't just see some animals, but rather have a glimpse into their world, their behaviours and interactions with one another.

The second element of the trip was a trek in the Mount Mulanje massif. As we approach southern Malawi we could see rocky peaks rising up majestically from of the dry lands of the surrounding plains and tea plantations. As a peak bagger, I was excited that we were heading for the highest point: Sapitwa, 3002m.

Sapitwa is a mountain surrounded by myths and legends, and translated it literally means ‘unreachable’ or ‘don’t go there’. Local traditions have it that it is home to ancestral spirits but, undeterred, we went there! Over the next few days we trekked up onto the Mulanje plateau and through the limestone landscape, sat around campfires, camped under bright stars and prepared for the summit day. Frank Eastwood’s book Guide to Mulanje Massif describes the route as ‘indescribable’, and although I think he is right I will try! The way up involves first some easy scrambling and walking up steep slabs of limestone followed by many, many boulders – as far as you can see. The route is marked by a few faint red arrows but our expert guides, George and George plus a group of helpers from our porter team, led us perfectly over, around and under the boulders. At the summit we were rewarded with amazing views across the plateau and beyond, and of course, a great sense of achievement that we had reached the unreachable!

Finishing our trek we were on the road again. The drives between our destinations were never dull – we had views across the vast landscapes, of villages and local people selling their wares by the roadside, masked traditional dancers, baobab trees and animals (unless of course you fall asleep after the trek!) Our final stop for the trip was two nights at Lake Malawi, a wonderful end to our adventure. We headed for Cape Maclear, a peninsula at the southern end of the lake, enclosed by forested hills and lush rocky islands. Our hotel garden is right on the beach, with golden sands and views over to the islands. This is the perfect place to relax, visit the local village for souvenirs or go on a boat trip. This really was a fantastic end to our recipe for a perfect holiday!

 

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