Days 1 to 2.

I flew to Guatemala with United Airlines. Descending to Newark Airport at the end of the first leg was impressive, with the Empire State and New York’s other high-rise real estate on the left side of the plane. On the second flight, I recall long spells of turbulence as we crossed the Gulf of Mexico at night, with the seat-back TV's flaring and flickering in the dark – quite surreal after a long day of travel. I arrived at Guatemala City Airport in the early hours and transferred to our hotel in the old part of Antigua. After just a few hours sleep, I got up for breakfast and met the clients and our local guides, Matt and Oseas. Picking up our bikes, we set off mid-morning for an introductory ride on the slopes of Volcan Agua, one of the 3 volcanoes that overlook this former Spanish Colonial city. We climbed on a good forest road from 1480 metres to close to 2000, then dropped back down on narrow and sometimes flowing singletrack through fields of maize and other crops - we were out for 2.5 hours, covering about 14 kilometres. After a late lunch in town we had free time to wander the cobbled streets and see the many bars and restaurants. We regrouped for dinner at the Rainbow Cafe in the evening.

Day 3.

Setting out straight from the hotel, through the town and up into the coffee plantations to the north, we biked and pushed our way to the top of the Cielo Grande ridge, with views of the biggest of the nearby volcanoes, Acatenango. We got over the top and down to a lunch stop at 19 km after a challenging 4 hours. Continuing, through pretty agricultural land, coffee, maize, huge blueberries and farmers working in the field - all of them cheerful, we reached the road, crossed it and tackled another short and steep climb up to the town of Parramos. Arriving at our farmstay accommodation, we grabbed a beer and hosed off our bikes on a grassy area (kept short by tethered goats) before turning our attention to showering and dinner. 6 hours exactly, covering 28 kilometres with 1100 metres of ascent.

Day 4.

Sunny start and much less technical riding today. A couple of steep sections, one quite long on a dirt road, and a couple of deep gulleys to cross which involved pushing our bikes. We also crossed the Pan-America highway twice on rideable footbridges. Some really pretty farmland. Lunch was a great spread set out by our support vehicle driver, Wilbur. Generally easier riding in the afternoon, with one stretch of 5 kilometres pretty level – maybe the only flattish bit in the entire country. The final approach to our accommodation at the recently closed flour mill at Tecpan was alongside the stream that served the mill. This is a charming place to stay with rooms just like those you stayed in at your grannies when you were a kid - well mine anyway. Another 6-hour day, covering 42 kilometres with 1100 metres of ascent.

Day 5.

Up early. Had a wander about taking pics in the garden. Some amazing birds out there. The sun was just up in this deep valley when we got away shortly before 9 am. Followed the river on a footpath, up onto a ridge and down through the town of Pazun. There were glimpses of the volcanoes Acatenango and Atitlan, although the cloud was rolling in again. Exiting Pazun, there is short but very steep, 30 percent, climb on concrete paving that only Matt and Oseos could ride. Then it's down into a gulley with a long push out, followed by a fast descent of the old road to the Madre Vieja River. After a meet up with Wilbur to water and a snack, we had a steep climb up onto the rim of the caldera within which Lake Atitlan sits. Here, at an overlook of the lake, we stopped for lunch. There was a fair bit of cloud blowing up off the lake and no clear volcano views. After lunch, we rode the fantastic Santa Cat singletrack descent to the lakeshore, through forest and farmland and then via the 200 steps of the village of Santa Catarina. A short road ride then took us to Panajachel and our excellent, bungalow style hotel, just a 10 minute walk from the lake shore through a street lined with colourful souvenir shops and restaurants. Another 6 hour day, covering 38 kilometres, with 1000 metres of ascent and 1500 metres of descent.

Day 6.

Up early and walked down to the lakefront at 7 am. Lovely morning and I got the pictures I wanted of the wooden piers and the most conical of the volcanoes, San Pedro. After breakfast, we packed the bikes on the bus and drove for 45 minutes back up into the hills above the lake. Then, setting off on our bikes, we climbed from 2600 metres to over 3000 metres, passing a Quiche Indian settlement and with good views of the Lake Atitlan volcanoes and of the lake itself. A mix of forest singletrack and some rockier trail, then a fast dirt road took us back down to the Madre Vieja River, followed by a killer climb to lunch - 300 metres on a dirt road, steep and hot. After lunch, we sped back to Panajachel on a mix of concrete road and some of the best flowing singletrack of the trip so far. Here, we boarded the boat which took us out to our hotel, the amazing, cliff-side Casa del Munro. With a 90hp outboard motor and a fast fibreglass shell, we were doing 20 knotts and bouncing from wave to wave. Great views from the hotel across the lake to the volcanoes Toliman, Atitlan and San Pedro. A 5 hour day, covering 30 kilometres, with 560 metres of ascent and 1560 metres of descent.
Day 7.

Some free time in the morning and a chance to go out on the lake in 2-man kayaks, before taking the launch back to Panajachel. We had lunch at a cafe - most of us opted for the fruit drink called 'immunobooster' an awesome mix of garlic and ginger and several yellow fruits – then set off on the drive across country to Huehuetenango. The drive took us close to 3000 metres amongst black clouds and rainbows, before reaching our destination in a little over 3 hours.
Day 8.

After breakfast at the hotel, we cycled through the streets of Huehuetenango to the start of a long road climb up into the Cuchamatanes Mountains. Not a lot of traffic, but a challenging climb, with some long steep sections and hairpins well above 25 percent on the inside. After more than 1200 metres of ascent, we reached a village beyond an indistinct pass and stopped for an early lunch beneath the awning of a temporarily closed (and vividly painted) filling station. Then, we cycled on village paths and red-dirt road, followed by a long singletrack descent, rocky in places, muddy in places, but with some nice, flowing sections, to Todos Santos. At one crest, the sun came out and we met a young boy (Fidel), the first person we had seen sporting the traditional Todos Santos garb of red striped jeans. The weekly market was clearing up when we reached this very individual town and the local people (all of the men in their red striped jeans, decorated white shirts and Panama hats) looked at us like we had descended from Mars. Nearly 7 hours today, covering 42 kilometres, with 1760 metres of ascent and 1130 metres of descent.
Day 9.

The day started with a long climb out of the valley on a village track and then dirt road, looking across onto the singletrack at the end of yesterday's ride. Having gained 1000 metres, we turned off onto a rocky trail, which became easier as it crossed the 'plateau' between impressive aloe vera plants. We stopped for lunch, then continued our ride on a rocky dirt road to Laguna Magdalena. Here, our accommodation was in government sponsored community cabins a 10-minute walk below the road and close to the lake. Our meals (dinner and breakfast) were carried down to us by the villagers – which worked well. Another day of over 6 hours, covering 43 kilometres, with 1430 metres of ascent and 1000 metres of descent.
Day 10.

Walking back up to the road, the sun came out and we set off on a very challenging section of track, slippery limestone and clinging mud. Shortly, we reached a hard-pack road and cycled through a picturesque village and up into a forest. Descending, we diverted onto a footpath that would take us directly down into the valley. Back on the hard-pack road and able to make better speed, we enjoyed a long, long descent through a string of villages. We had a Coca Cola and sandwich stop outside a small ‘tienda’, before continuing on an undulating route which ended with a final climb to our overnight stop at the dairy farm of Acul. Another day of more than 6 hours on the road, covering 41 kilometres, with 1100 metres of ascent and 2080 metres of descent.
Day 11.

After a filling breakfast, majoring on flat breads and the farm’s own cream and berry jam, along with the best coffee of the trip, we set off on our bikes. An initial rapid descent, then up and over on a dirt road to the lively town of Nebaj. Beyond this town, we diverted onto the old Mayan trail of the 'boqueron' that cuts up steeply to the ridge line over 7 challenging and cobbled limestone kilometres. Beyond the crest, this doubletrack traverse across forested hillside with views extending to Tajumulco, the highest peak in Central America. A great section of the ride, with interesting paths and tracks and a long and fun singletrack descent, took us to a lunch stop in Cunen. Wilbur had found a great, shaded spot and we were serenaded by a Movistar van and loudspeakers for half the time we were there. Girding our loins, we set off to tackle the 'Gringo Killer' a steep and sustained 3 km dirt road climb to a knotch on the hillside above. Continuing to climb on a great section of road, we passed through pretty hamlets illuminated by the setting sun and a rising full moon. We undulated across country as the light faded, to our simple hotel in the Mayan village of Uspantan. More than 8 hours today, covering 57 kilometres, with 1900 metres of ascent and descent.
Day 12.

We rolled down to a service station to wash and lube the bikes, before heading out of town on a fast tarmac road descent, passing through the town of Chicaman. Reaching a turn off, we cycled on a dirt road through farmland, with isolated houses and a couple of tough climbs. Views out over the Chixoy Valley to our left, as we dropped down to the Chixoy River via a fast blast on a continuously steep track, rocky in places, all rideable. Arriving at the steel bridge spanning the river, we were just 500 metres above sea-level... hot and humid down there. The second part of the day was all back uphill and we aimed to tick off quite a lot of this before lunch. Crossing the bridge, we climbed a once-tarmaced road, now mostly dirt. There were a few minibuses and 4WD's and some trucks carrying rocks on the route. We gained height gradually, mostly at 5 to 8 percent gradient with just a couple of steeper bits. We stopped for coke at a shop and for lunch (a couple of hours up the hill) on the forecourt of another disused (but otherwise impressive) petrol station. We had quite a crowd of curious kids, several of whom earned refried bean paste sandwiches, courtesy of Wilbur, once we had finished. Continuing and passing a prominent landslide scar from a few years ago, we then dropped down into the town of Santa Cruz and a rendezvous with Wilbur and the support vehicle. A short transfer then took us to our hotel on the outskirts of Coban. More than 7 hours today, covering 58 kilometres, with 1600 metres of ascent and 2050 metres of descent.
Day 13.

Our final day of bike, we set off directly from the hotel, turning off onto a quiet road that would follow a river valley, largely downhill, for much of the morning. A pleasant and scenic ride through farmland and villages, we ticked off 50 kilometres in short order, including an interesting interlude in a village where a market was in progress and all traffic and cyclists ground to halt. After a Coca Cola stop, the last part of the descent to Lanquin was on a rough limestone road - fast but hard on the hands. We had decided that we would ride all the way to Semuc Chapey before our lunch stop, so we embarked on what would be by far the most challenging part of the day's ride, crossing the forested and farmed ridge that separates Lanquin from Semuc Champey. Thankfully, after a fierce 3 kilometre ascent (as steep as the Gringo Killer, but on a rougher, more slippery dirt road), the very last part of our cycle journey was a long, fun descent to the river. After lunch, we walked to the river pools for a dip in our cycling kit, then transferred out in rugged 4WD KIA trucks to our hostal beside the river in Lanquin. A 5 hour cycling day, covering 69 kilometres, with 1090 metres of ascent and 2080 metres of descent.
Day 14.

We had a very early start for the drive back to Antigua, stopping off for breakfast just before 8 at a very odd roadside diner, full of all sorts of stuff from old bikes to ornate Alpine clocks. Food was good and the coffee on endless top-up. Arriving in Antigua in the early afternoon, we had a wander about town in the sun and time for some rest, before going out for a final meal in town. The old part of Antigua is notable for its many wild and wonderful bars and restaurants and we signed off on our time in Guatemala with a visit to a dark and tiny ‘hole-in-the-wall’ bar (Cafe No Se) where the drink of choice is mezcal. If I hadn’t been facing a 3am start for the beginning of my journey home, I could have got into it!