“Off the beaten track”

We’ve all read those words, used to conjure up a romantic vision that you’re going to be the only group in a totally undiscovered area! But, what if it was true? What if you could spend 5 days walking and camping in an undiscovered corner of a country, allowing you to step back in time and experience a place before tourism arrived?

June saw my 3rd visit to one of my all-time favourite destinations, Morocco. In 2011, I explored the breath-taking Mediterranean Coast, the beautiful Rif Mountains, the pretty town of Chefchaouen and, fantastic Tangiers, whist in 2012 I climbed Toubkal and Ouanoukrim in the superb High Atlas, and discovered Marrakech. However, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect at the promise of trekking and wild camping along the Atlantic Coast with dromedaries!

We met Hassan our smiling KE leader on arrival at the airport and spent our first night in Marrakech. The group hotel was a mere 15mins drive from the airport and its fantastic location ensured an easy 15min walk to the famed Djemaa-el-Fna. The next morning we set off to Lmessouane on Morocco’s Atlantic Coast. After leaving the bustle of Marrakech, the 5 hour transfer passed quickly, driving parallel to the High Atlas, we were even treated to a view of snow-capped Toubkal in the distance! We reached Lmessouane, where after a relaxed 3 hour leg stretch through farming hamlets we arrived at our first camp. Tents were already pitched, complete with “sea views” and as we settled down for our first dinner “al fresco” we realised we were indeed the only people as far as the eye could see. I honestly can’t remember the last time this has happened, but little did I know that we wouldn’t see any other groups, for the rest of the trek!

Each morning we awoke to the relaxing sound of the sea before the trek crew prepared a breakfast of porridge, local bread, jams, honey, soft cheeses and hot drinks. Lunches were either a picnic lunch carried with us and eaten on a deserted beach, or if we arrived at camp early afternoon, Muhammed had prepared us a fresh Moroccan salad, a colourful combination of lentils, cheese, olives, tomatoes, sweetcorn, onions, green peppers and pasta. A highlight of the week was a lunch-time invitation into a local house where we feasted on freshly baked bread which we dunked into a delicious rich dip of ground roasted peanuts and the famed Argon oil! I’ll never forget the curiosity of local children as we showed them digital photos whilst our camels rested in the family courtyard. Every evening our amazing cook Muhammed presented us with a freshly prepared soup, followed by a tajine of lamb or chicken with vegetables. As a vegetarian I was treated to a colourful medley of slow cooked vegetables, deliciously prepared in local herbs and spices. We rounded off dinner with fresh fruit and zingy mint tea.

Nothing could have prepared us for the sheer beauty of Atlantic Coast and as the week progressed the scenery became more spectacular with dramatic cliff top walking, endless sandy beaches, dramatic coastal trails, traditional fishing villages and the famed tree climbing Argan goats! Each night we wild camped on beaches or beneath sands dunes and fell asleep to the relaxing sound of the sea. During afternoons we paddled in the ocean or clambered up sand dunes for coastal panoramas of sandy beaches that stretched for miles. We strolled through tiny fishing villages, watched local fishing boats bob on the horizon and as we reached camp, our trusty furry friends were there to welcome us! On the final trekking day, as we bid goodbye to Abdul and his three humped companions, I felt really privileged, as if we’d been invited into a secret side of Morocco that very few experience.

Our final night on the beautiful Atlantic Coast was spent in the breath-taking whitewashed UNESCO town of Essaouira. Complete with its walled medina, colourful fishing port, coastal ramparts and pavements cafes, Essaouira is a wonderful laid back place, with a stunning sea facing location. After dinner we strolled down to the harbour, and watched a magical sunset, surrounded by local families and the first tourists we had seen in 5 days!

All too soon we were back in Marrakech and as we sat having our final group dinner, I couldn’t help thinking how lucky we had been to experience an area that is genuinely “off the beaten track,” but don’t tell everyone…our Atlantic Camel Caravan is KEs best kept Moroccan secret!

These are my TOP 5 Moroccan winter sun adventures!

>> Edge of the Sahara Trek

>> Peak and Valleys of Jebel Sirwa

>> Jebel Sahro Winter Sunshine Trek

>> Winter Toubkal Trek

>> Dunes of the Sahara Traverse

>> View all our holidays in Morocco