Discovering Tuscany's Wild Side

For many people the typical image of Tuscany is that of rolling hills, terraced vineyards, poplar trees and maybe a sunflower or two. Having just retu... Read more
Discovering Tuscany's Wild Side

For many people the typical image of Tuscany is that of rolling hills, terraced vineyards, poplar trees and maybe a sunflower or two. Having just returned from our ‘Wild Tuscany’ walking week, I can confirm that the reality is somewhat different. Tuscany has got backbone - limestone backbone - and the ‘hills’ that await are actually mountains, clad not in poplar trees but in dense beech forest, opening out onto lush meadows and rugged ridges, which deliver dramatic views of the other challenges on offer.

However, whilst the landscape shows off Tuscany’s wild side, our residence for the walking week – a private hillside villa with accompanying pool and gardens, a terrace on which to sip prosecco and an outdoor pizza oven ready to be tested - proved that there’s certainly still a soft side to Tuscany. A soft side, which can only be described as idyllic.

Jamie and Ailsa

We were welcomed at the villa by our wonderful hosts, Jamie and Ailsa, a British couple who were captivated by Tuscany’s charm 8 years ago as an alternative to the Scottish rain. They made us feel instantly at home in their ‘Place in the Sun’ gone very right. Not a detail had been overlooked and their enthusiasm for the region was infectious. Ailsa was also our chef for the week - and what a chef she was…

FarroSaladedit

Every day we were presented with new delights, be it at breakfast, lunch or dinner, and never a meal passed by without our taste buds tingling and someone requesting the recipe. Would it be possible to recreate this at home or was part of the flavour due to the fact that her ingredients were wholesome, organically homegrown and handpicked?  From homemade fig jam to lamb kofta with garden grown horseradish to olive oil-doused potatoes, all topped off with an espresso cup full of salted chocolate delight, the food was as stunning as the landscape and most definitely a highlight for many on this holiday.

Helping us earn these delights was our walking guide, Lindsay, who was keen to get us out in the mountains and give us a taste of the real Tuscany. With the Appenine range behind us and the Apenino range opposite, there was plenty on the menu and her light-hearted, encouraging manner and well-honed experience meant that these feasts were served with gusto and ease.

Tuscan hills

Our first walk of the week was the ideal introduction to the days ahead; a gentle ascent through beech forest followed by morning coffee (if we weren't awake, we were now!) and homemade biscuits supplied by Ailsa. This prepared us for a short gorge section (an antipasto to our wild walking) before the final ascent on an open flower-filled meadow onto our first Tuscan summit - Monte Croce (1314m).   Feeling fulfilled, in part a result of the summit buzz and in part due to the wonderful lunch we’d just had, we began our descent back to the transfer vehicle and returned to the villa, stopping en route for our first well-earned gelato – amerena (black cherry) flavour comes highly recommend!

The evening brought further treats with another delicious dinner accompanied by free-flowing Italian wine and followed by a natural light show of hundreds of fireflies who had settled for the evening in the villa's grounds - truly magical.

Walking through 'Inferno'

The next two days' walks followed suit offering yet more stunning views of the rugged Tuscan landscape, sun-dappled beech forest trails, rocky ridges and enough ascent to work off the delicacies we were enjoying each evening. The return drive to the villa was often punctuated with a stop in a pretty village or town for essential refreshment, be it beer, coffee or gelato, and a chance to get a flavour of local Tuscan life and style.

By Day 5 the group was ready for a rest and a day off from walking was welcomed by all. Everyone resisted the draw of the villa’s pool and opted instead to take the train to the incredibly well preserved walled city of Lucca for a dose of culture, coffee and, for some, cycling (a short 20 minute ride along the walls for great views of the city). In true Italian style, a long lunch was taken - most of the shops close from 12:30 – 4:00 so it's only right to sample the local delicacies and take in the ambience. Delizioso!

Well rested, we were all ready to take on our highest climb of the week, Monte Giovo (1991m) - the high point of the Apennine mountain range, which granted us satisfying views onto our previous conquests – had we really been that high?! No wonder the gelato tasted so good!

So how to summarize this brilliant week of food, fun and adventure?

It’s simple really; this is a delight of a trip, wild and welcoming, indulgent and adventurous with all the finishing touches in place – truly bellisimo!

>> Wild Tuscany walking holiday

Watch the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLqDvgOteFs

 

 

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