Meet at the group hotel in Omalos. Afternoon and evening transfers from Chania Airport are provided. This is a spectacular drive along narrow winding roads that take us up into the foothills of the White Mountains. The few tavernas that make up the settlement of Omalos are situated on a fertile grazing area amongst rocky limestone peaks. We spend the next 2 nights at a small, friendly, family-run establishment with comfortable rooms and an excellent restaurant, which is popular with the locals.

After breakfast a 10 minute transfer takes us to the start of the famous trek down the Samaria Gorge. But, we will save the gorge walk for tomorrow. Today, we will climb Gingilos (1980m) the impressive mountain that towers above. Following a rough, but way-marked footpath, it's a steady climb for an hour and a half to a year-round spring. After an obligatory stop to top-up our water bottles, a zig-zag path leads to a rocky col, which affords views of the Libyan Sea to the south. Above the col the path becomes slightly more challenging, with some short and easy sections of scrambling. Less than an hour from the col takes us to a rounded summit, complete with prominent cairn. From here, there are superb views right across the whole of the White Mountains massif to distant Pachnes, the highest mountain in the range and our goal in a few days time. Nearer to hand is a rocky crest which is the true summit of Gingilos, just 5 metres higher than the cairned summit. It is an optional 15 minute scramble across to this point. We return by the same route and spend a second night in Omalos.

We won't start too early this morning, so we can miss the crowds of tourists who arrive early by bus from the resorts of the northern coast to walk down the extremely popular Samaria Gorge. This is the longest ravine in Europe and arguably the most spectacular. Our baggage is taken down to Sougia and by ferry from there to Agia Roumeli, whilst we take the short transfer to Xiloskala (1250m) a viewpoint overlooking the gorge. Here, we chill out in a cafe that overlooks the descent path and then, in the late morning, we set off on our walk. By this time, the area is usually deserted. For the first 2km of the walk, we descend dramatically via a path that leads to the bottom of the upper gorge. The peaks of Gingilos and Volakias tower above us, as gigantic walls of rock, whilst on our left-hand side the White Mountains extend to the east. The small chapel of Agios Nikolaos, nestling among pines and cypresses, signals the start of a more gentle descent and soon we reach the old hamlet of Samaria. From here, the path twists and turns, passing Saint Mary's Church, which has the date 1379 over the doorway. We soon reach the narrowest part of the gorge, the famous 'Portes' (Gates). Here, the rock architecture is amazing, with the walls soaring vertically upwards for 500 metres on either side of the path. The final few kilometres bring us to the welcome sight of Agia Roumeli and the Libyan Sea. Arriving in the late afternoon, we find that the vast majority of the people who have walked the gorge have already departed from Agia Roumeli by ferry, either westwards to Sougia or eastwards to Hora Sfakion. Once they've gone, Agia Roumeli returns to its tranquil self, nestling between wild mountains and the deep blue sea. This is the hidden Crete that most tourists never experience. Whilst in Agia Roumeli, we stay at a comfortable hotel and take our evening meals at the quite excellent Artemis Restaurant.

Until the first of the day’s walkers make their way down the gorge, which is usually not until mid afternoon, Agia Roumeli is the perfect Cretan hideaway and the perfect spot to relax for the day. A small clean pebbly beach lies in front of the village and is an excellent spot for swimming. Alternatively, a short walk to the east leads to an even quieter beach that stretches for miles. For those who are keen to do some exercise, there is a choice of possible walks. The clearly visible Turkish fort above the village can be reached in 45 minutes and a decent path to the north leads to the old settlement of Agia Roumeli, providing an easy 2 hour circuit. Longer walking options include the ascent to Papoura, a beautiful spot 900 metres (3000 feet) above the village. It is a steep climb of 3 to 4 hours to reach Papoura, but the rewards are great views of the coast, the mountains and the Samaria Gorge from above. After the day’s tourists have departed, we will enjoy a peaceful night at our hotel and have another opportunity to sample the famous Cretan food at the Artemis Restaurant.

The walk from Agia Roumeli to Loutro starts along a delightful coastal path. Leaving Agia Roumeli in the cool of the early morning we walk on a way-marked path, crossing beaches, wandering through pine trees and along the cliffs. A pleasant spot for a break and a swim is at the small Byzantine church of Saint Paul. This is the spot where Saint Paul is said to have landed on Crete on his voyage to Greece. Decorated with murals, this historic church by the sea is engaged in a continual battle against the waves. Beyond the church the path climbs above the beach and eventually leaves the pine forest, continuing through a more barren area between the Libyan sea and a barrier of cliffs to the beach of Marmara and the entrance of the Aradena Gorge. We have another opportunity for a swim (or a drink in the small beach cafe) before continuing towards the Bay of Loutro. From here short boat ride will takes us to Sfakia, where we will stay at a small family-run hotel overlooking the sea.

Today we will hike to the top of Pachnes (2453m) the highest summit in the White Mountains. By a height of just 3 metres, Pachnes is not the highest mountain in Crete. Timios Stavros in the Ida Mountains is slightly higher. However, this is arguably, the best mountain walk in Crete. Although Pachnes is not a technically difficult mountain, it is rarely climbed, since the walk to its summit involves a long day. There are also logistical transport problems associated with the ascent and this means it is almost never offered as a guided route. We start out by driving up to the mountain village of Anopolis and onwards for around 20km, following a rough track to an altitude of 1950m. Then, starting our walk through the weird lunar landscape of Crete’s high desert region, we reach the summit after 2 hours. On a clear day, the summit views extend over half the island. With a bit of luck we may be accompanied by griffon and bearded vultures and even golden eagles. After signing the summit book we descend back to the drop-off point. We return to Sfakia after a brilliant day out, with simply unforgettable views.

Our final day’s trekking is a circular route, starting with a short boat ride to the beach at Marmara. From here, we head inland into the impressive depths of the Aradena Gorge. Although this is not as big as the Samaria Gorge, it is just as spectacular and much quieter. If anything, the underfoot conditions are slightly harder, with a series of easy scrambles across several rockfalls. It will take us 3 hours to reach the ancient village of Aradena, the last part of the walk involving an interesting (and ancient) paved pathway that zig-zags out of the gorge. We will be able to look around the ruined village and hopefully get a drink at the kiosk cafe at this spectacular gorge viewpoint. Here, the gorge is just 30 metres wide and has been spanned by a metal bridge. The view from the bridge into the depths of the gorge is breathtaking. From here, we hike across country, following an old, cobbled road through the rough fields of an impressive limestone plateau, to reach the pretty village of Anopolis, where we stop to take lunch at a taverna. After lunch, we stroll across to the clifftop chapel of Agia Katarini, which is an excellent place to watch griffon vultures as they soar along the edge of the plateau. We then drop down on a rough track down to Loutro, then on to Sfakia with a chance for a swim along the way. We enjoy a celebratory meal in the evening to end a special holiday.

The holiday ends after breakfast. There will be a single timed transfer back to Chania Airport, a drive of around 2 hours.